THE SUIT. (more from our darling Glen Sondag of Chicago)

A man can purchase a suit “off-the-rack”,  or buy “separates”, or select a suit from among swatches and ask to have it produced, or you can purchase a semi-custom suit, and lastly, when price is no object, you can have a suit custom made.   Let’s talk about the differences why you might do one versus another.  Men’s suits, like most other items of apparel go on sale, normally twice a year.

This is a good time for many men to acquire that next suit.  This works particularly well for those men who have a reasonably proportioned body and fit into the most common size, e.g. 42 Regular.  Men’s suits come in two inch variances, (40, 42, 44, etc), but some stores carry a limited number of suits in sizes 41, 43, 45 and so on.  As I mentioned previously, most suit manufacturers make the vast majority of their garments in a Regular, and somewhat fewer in a Short, and a Long.

Generally, men 5′ 6″ and under will prefer a Short, while men over 6 feet tall may want a Long.  There are stores that cater to the very short, and the very tall men as well..  If your man is a 42 Regular he will usually find a large selection to choose from.  As you move up or down the scale, the selection diminishes.  If you are one of those men who have a 46 inch chest, but a 32 inch waist (God love you), you might find it best to shop at a store that carries “separates”, like Jos. A. Bank.

If you want a much wider selection you can always go to a store, like Nordstrom’s that have on hand (fabric) swatches from one or more manufacturers.  You might have 50 to 100 to pick from.  If you see one that appeals to you, they will have the suit made for you in your size jacket and trousers.  Likely, when it arrives at the store it will still need to be altered.

Up the ladder is “semi-custom” from places like Tom James Co.  In this instance they take numerous measurements, you select the fabric and the suit is cut to those specs, as opposed to a suit model.  A truly “custom-made” suit, on the other hand starts with a series of measurements by a custom tailor, who then makes a paper pattern. You have several fittings along the various stages of construction to insure that the suit is perfectly fitted to your body.   Everything is hand done by a craftsman.  The buttons are made of animal horn, not plastic, and the lining is bemburg,  The lapels are beautifully rolled and the rise of the trouser is perfect.  For all this finery you can expect to pay upwards of $2500.  If your man is given to go this route, and the suit is a navy solid, (the most basis suit for men), have the tailor make a second pair of trousers.

Here is question for you readers: if the tailor asks, “what side are you dressed on”, what is he asking you?